24 September - Getting There

Wednesday – We left after a rather busy and sad day at the funeral of Brock Grant, a member of our long-time travel group, the Intrepids. It was a lovely celebration of the life of a lovely man and he will be missed very much.

It seems to be farther to the departure gates every time we pass through Pearson. I guess we’re just a bit slower each time. We’d been in the departure lounge a short time when Cathy joined us, followed by Lynn. We’re a small group this time. Eventually we were aboard a very crowded flight, and on our way about 12:15 am.

Thursday – We landed at Bogota at some crazy early hour and there was a time change involved. It might have been 4 am. We had a couple hours to clear customs and immigration and find our departure gate. But then it got complicated – suddenly. We were dealing with an officer for a few minutes and suddenly Larry and Cathy were sent off in one direction and Lynn and I were ushered to the back of a long, unmoving line of people. None of the attendants spoke English and our Spanish is minimal, but using French, we found that we were in line to pay an entry fee. Larry and Cathy were exempt because of their ages. After a very long wait, we paid and were sent on our way, wondering where the others were.

[Larry version: the others (Larry & Cathy), after waiting for more than 30 minutes on the Columbia side of the immigration barrier, were finally ordered to move on.  Through an extensive “Duty-Free” mishmash was the Customs Barrier.  This was the Connections Zone and you needed a “Connection Boarding Pass” to pass through, but the missing Janice had Larry’s.  While debating which of us had the best chance of talking us through the gate, the missing Janice and Lynn appeared behind us, and all was well.]

 It’s a large and somewhat confusing airport, but we caught up with them at Departures. They couldn’t enter because I had Larry’s boarding pass. Once inside, though, we discovered, and sampled, genuine Juan Valdez coffee!

We boarded on time but it was a long wait before take-off. Very interesting landscape below, once we were in the air. 

 

At the Cartagena airport we quickly retrieved our bags and found our driver, who delivered us to the hotel around 9 am. Our rooms weren’t ready, but they told us we would have them by 3 or sooner, as soon as they were cleaned and ready. We enjoyed an interesting and vast buffet breakfast, then settle in by the gorgeous pool.

 The “Sofitel Santa Clara” is beautiful, luxurious and impressive. At the same time Cartagena is hot and humid, and we sat around until after 3:30 before we got our rooms.

We were tired, hot and getting cranky. Cathy decided to have a massage, which was wonderful. Lynn swam in the huge pool and may have napped a bit beside it. Larry and I felt real regret at having forgotten to pack our bathing suits. I considered shopping for one but did not have the energy, so I just enjoyed the bird song and people watched.

Once in our rooms, we rested for a couple hours, then joined our cruise coordinator and 3 other guests for drinks. By the end of the conversation, Larry and I had signed up for the rest of the pre-cruise program. Then Cathy, Larry and I went for a nice dinner before turning in for the night. 

Lynn had room service. (That white square on the left is a button to call to remove the tray.)

 

 

 All Photos of 24 Sep 

 

 

 

  

26 September - Around Cartagena

 Friday – Early Morning view from our balcony.

  

We had hoped to join the AMA city tour today, but we were too late asking, and could not be added to the group. We checked with the concierge, who set us up for a private tour with a really terrific guide, Carlos. He picked us up at 10 and showed us the city until about 1pm. We really got a taste of Cartagena – starting at the

highest point, for views and a taste of history, viewing the fortifications 

 

 

 

 

and driving through some very interesting neighbourhoods. In many cases it was amazing to drive down extremely narrow passages shared with pedestrians, or to see amazing artwork offered for sale beside the street. We ended the tour with a 

 

 

 

 

visit to the Emerald Museum, where temptation proved irresistible!!!  

 

 

 

 Back to the hotel, we needed a rest after being out in the heat and humidity.

All Photos of the day 

 

27 September - Getting Aboard the AMA Magdalena

Saturday – We met Cathy & Lynn for breakfast, and enjoyed the music of a live violinist and a visit from a brightly-dressed lady carrying a bowl of fruit on her head. The group was going on another tour, but we found the local craft market and did a bit of shopping.

Then we wandered along the city wall overlooking the sea.

We arranged to meet them and be part of the transfer to the ship. Meanwhile, the cool of our room was most welcome. Of course, we had to pack. You’d wonder how we could spread out so much in less than 2 days. 

 

 

We were welcomed aboard the AMA Magdalena and given lunch. The Cartagena group had an early tour, arriving back just as we left to walk through the 

 

 

Gethsemeni neighbourhood. That neighbourhood name is pronounced “hexemony” locally and it took me a while to understand the Biblical connection that was frequently mentioned. It’s a very interesting area, 

 

 

now undergoing gentrification but with many reminders of its modest, and sometimes shady past. Back on board we had a drink in Cathy’s suite and watched out the windows as we departed Cartagena and a storm rolled in. 

 

 

 

 

 We saw several party boats, fireworks and spectacular lightening strikes. Soon it was time for our welcome aboard information session, followed by dinner. All very impressive, especially when I can have whatever I want, garlic-free. We lingered so long over dinner that we missed a session that happened at 9. Back in our stateroom we found lovely gifts from AMA welcoming us aboard. Then we retired as tomorrow starts really early.

 

Photos of the Day 

28 September - On the River - Native Village Visits

Sunday – We were up at 6 to enjoy breakfast before heading out in vans for Palenque. It was a rather rough ride, but so worth it!! Palenque was founded by escaped black slaves. 

 The town has kept its language, traditions and lifestyle, unique. We were told that no one who was not born there can teach in the schools, hold any office or marry a local person. We visited a healer who explained many remedies, a hairstylist who told us the meaning (and use) of traditional women’s styles. A traditional house was basic but very practical. 

  

We all tried to make music on local percussion instruments, with varying success. Our final stop was for a lively and very entertaining dance demonstration, which we were invited to join at the end. Several people did join and it looked like they had fun, even if they didn’t master the moves. We were back on board and sailing again by about 10 am (yes, really 10am) and I confess that I fell asleep and had to be awakened for lunch, which was  based on Palenque Afro-Colombian cuisine. Delicious!

The Executive Chef onboard, hosted a fruit-tasting session, where we sampled local fruits, then we all loaded into paolas (bike rickshaws)

to tour the city of Calamar. It was a bigger, more prosperous place before various transportation and commercial changes shifted things to Cartagena and the coast. We enjoyed an energetic and impressive dance demonstration at the cultural centre, then emerged into pouring rain. Our paolo driver was most helpful with umbrellas and a supporting arm. Back onboard, it was time for pre-dinner drinks, and then another great dinner with excellent conversation. By the time we left the table, it was time to turn in.

Photos of the Day 

29 September - Water Exploration

Monday – It was a more relaxed beginning today. At 9:45 we boarded small boats for an excursion around this beautiful area.

There is an “island” in the river that has internal waterways filled with fascinating life. The local people are  

fishers and farmers, who raise pigs, chickens and water buffalo. There are many kinds of birds and lush landscapes. The invasive water hyacinth are everywhere, and we even saw some in bloom.

 It does seem, though, that the water buffalo appreciate them as food. The houses we saw were all built to withstand flooding, but at the moment the ground floor areas are dry. Watching the fishers was interesting. They use nets and catch many varieties of fish, for their own consumption and for sale at local markets. 

Our local guide is actually a music person, with excellent English and broad knowledge & our AMA guide was also great. Between them we were well-informed and entertained. 

Back on board we enjoyed lunch, 2 talks about Colombia, a welcome back reception, and an lively jazz performance on the pier as we came into Mompox. Then Cathy, Lynn and I joined a small group for a 6-course meal sampling Colombian flavours and dishes. Meanwhile, Larry had a regular dinner and relaxed in our stateroom.

All Photos of the Day 

30 September - Bird Watching Expedition & Mompox Exploration (Orange Shirt Day)

Tuesday - Happy Birthday Sally Jo. A 5:15 am alarm might not be much fun, but it was the beginning of a busy and rewarding morning. At 6 we boarded small boats an went into an area that is heavily populated with birds.

We saw many varieties, as well as a few alligators, some iguana, several dogs and some cattle.

 

 

  

 There were some children boarding boats to take them to school. Back at the ship, we had breakfast, then were back on land for a tuk-tuk tour of the town. Once we’d seen the high points, Larry and some others returned to the ship while the rest of us went to a filigree workshop, where we made little silver filigree hearts. I was back on board in time for lunch and the rest of the day was made for leisure (read “long nap”).

 All Photos of the Day 

01 October - Mompox and Pirates

 Wednesday -- Breakfast was leisurely, then we strolled along the riverside, admiring the old buildings in this part of Mompox, and spotting several iguanas. The houses are single-story, but there is significant flood protection along the banks.  We were back on board well before we sailed at 10:15 and just relaxed until lunch, and then played cards after lunch until time for the story of pirates, buccaneers and privateers in this area. A nap took us to time for the lively onboard performance of Cumbria music, and dance with El Banco. For the performance all the ladies were given fascinators, and the men red bandanas. 

We had expected to encounter them on shore, but were unable to dock at their home port. Conversation over dinner took us to bed time.  Soon we’ll be getting ready to disembark, which we’ll be sorry to do. This is fun.

All Photos of the Day 

02 October - Santa Barbara de Pinto

 Thursday – We had an early visit to Santa Barbara de Pinto, where we watched local experts prepare small cigars and weave huge fishing nets. 

These skills are passed generation to generation and some of the guests tried rolling tobacco 

  

 

and casting fishing nets. They did far better at the first than the second. 
 

  

 

Our visit ended with a lively dance that illustrated all the steps in the creation of corn food, from the planting through the serving. We each received a helping but most of us passed them along to the local children. Our welcome and farewell were very enthusiastic, as the people of this area are experiencing new prosperity with the rise of tourism.

All Photos of the Day 

03 October - Usiacuri and Carnival

Friday – We had an early boat trip to a nearby road access and then several small busses took us to Usiacuri, a town that specializes in creating beautiful things from palm leaves. I had the misfortune to be the one person in the very back row of the bus. Every bump and swerve (and on those roads there are many bumps and swerves) was amplified, and all I could see out the window was the edge of the road whipping by – I was above and behind all windows. It was about a 75-minute ride, by which time I was feeling very ill. Fresh air and cold water helped a great deal and everyone was very attentive, especially our river guide, Jorge. 

We had a workshop,
where we practiced the most basic form of weaving with palm leaves. It definitely is a skill that needs lots of practice, and we developed an even greater appreciation for the artwork!

After some shopping time, we headed back to the riverside. This time I rode next to the driver, and got to see all 

 

  

 

the lovely scenery I had missed on the way out. The boats took us back to the ship. 

 

 

We docked in Barranquilla, and were invited to go ashore for drinks, treats and a terrific sample of Carnival entertainment by local performers. 

Wow! So much talent, so colourful, so much fun! They even dressed us up with fantastic hats and necklaces. A fabulous way to end the cruise.

 

All Photos of the Day 

04 October - Bogota

Saturday – Another early morning, with a boxed breakfast, as Cathy, Lynn, Larry and I were taken to the Barranquilla airport for an early flight to Bogota. On the ground there we had a brief period of anxiety, as our driver, Carlos, was not there to meet us. A phone call confirmed that he was tied up in traffic. He delivered us to our hotel, to drop our bags (fewer than we expected, since our checked luggage was bound for Toronto, hopefully on the same flight we were).   

The local guide, Diego, met us at the hotel and we were off for a day in Bogota! We saw many neighbourhoods, had a traditional, delicious lunch at a great restaurant, and went to Simon Bolivar Square

. We visited the beautiful church there, then braved the crowds to find Carlos and make our way to the Botaro Museum, then the Gold Museum. The crowning point of the day was the funicular ride to the highest point of the city. We were a bit too late for the sunset, 

but enjoyed the array of city lights below us.

All Photos of the Day